Measuring Guide
A century of experience making men’s premium dress shirts has taught us the importance of taking precise measurements. Our goal is to make every shirt a perfect fit, regardless of your physique or fit preferences. Over the years we have continually refined our measuring system to help us achieve that perfect fit. The instructions that follow provide a step-by-step approach to capturing the measurements we need to design and build the unique paper pattern we use to cut and sew your handmade shirt. Your Custom Shop bespoke shirt is a unique work of art that presents you as a man of substance, style and taste. If you feel uncomfortable with these instructions please download and print this sheet and visit your local tailor.
Place tape around neck at the point where your client wears his collar. Leave one finger under tape as shown. This will automatically give the correct collar size.
The chest measure is taken well up under the arms, making sure tape runs over the shoulder blades. This measure should be taken without drawing tape too snugly.
The yoke measure is taken directly across the top of the shoulder as illustrated. It is taken from one shoulder bone to the other at the highest outside points.
Place the tape below the belt running across the hips and rear, taking an easy measure.
Place tape around the waist, well above the waistband at the widest girth, taking an easy measure.
The shirt length is taken from the base of the collar to the length your client likes his shirts. Give the length desired for tucked-in and outer sport shirts. The tuxedo pleat length is taken from the front shoulder seam near the neck to the length your client likes his pleat. If a vest or cummerbund is worn, a point approximately one inch inside of these is correct. If no vest or cummerbund is worn, a point about one inch above the pants is correct.
Place end of tape at the exact center of the yoke below the collar, passing it over the highest point of the shoulder. The sleeve length is to the bottom edge of the cuff.
With fingers and thumb held together as shown, the tape is placed around the widest part of the hand. If the client wants to slip his hand in the sleeves without opening the cuffs, this gives the perfect size. Frequently, clients like cuffs that are smaller or larger than the measurement would indicate.
For the purposes of avoiding inaccuracies in measurements, use the figures shown below. In figures 1-5, a man’s general posture is indicated. In figures A-C, the slope is indicated. This will assist the designer should there be any questions regarding your measurements.